A granny square cowl that will keep you warm and stylish as you embrace the season’s charms is a must-have for fall. It’s the perfect accessory for crisp fall outings!

Fall is one of the most magical times of the year, filled with outdoor adventures that bring joy and excitement. The crisp, clear air makes it perfect for bundling up and heading out for fun activities like apple-picking, where you can fill your basket with fresh, juicy fruit straight from the trees. 

Hayrides through fields of golden corn or pumpkin patches are a nostalgic delight, as you watch the vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows of the falling leaves swirl around you.

There’s something truly special about this season that invites us to embrace the beauty of nature, making every outing feel like a celebration of autumn’s charm.

Why not add a gorgeous granny square cowl to that charm that brings all the colors and cozy fall feels together?

The Wagon Wheel Cowl is the accessory you’ll need to be stylish and warm while you’re enjoying all your favorite fall activities!

The Wagon Wheel Granny Square Cowl

Design + Construction

I originally designed the Wagon Wheel granny square for the 2024 Granny Stitch Sampler Blanket that made its debut in this year’s crochet along. I fell in love with the look of the square and knew I needed to repurpose it for other crochet projects.

The granny square starts as a circle, one that looks like the spokes of a wagon wheel, making it the ideal foundation for this fall-themed granny square cowl. The circle becomes a square by working stitches of differing heights and with the addition of corner spaces.

In the square, I combined my beloved granny stitch with double crochet clusters (the modern granny stitch). And, a bit of surface texture is created by working half double crochets in the third loop (the camel stitch).

The 4 squares work up quickly and are joined in a ring to form the body of the granny square cowl. I used a slip stitch seam to add a touch of texture to the look of the granny square cowl. 

To complete the look and pull it all together, a granny stitch border is worked along both edges of the cowl. 

While this granny square cowl is designed with fall in mind, it’s actually perfect for any season. Choose the fiber content and colors you want for to create an accessory for any occasion or season.

Customize your granny square cowl

Here are a few suggestions:

• Use multiple colors. Mix it up in the border by working a traditional multi-color granny square look with a new color for each round. Or, highlight various sections of the square by changing colors instead of using just one.
• The width of your granny square cowl can be customized just by changing the number of rounds of granny stitch you work for the Border.
• Add squares to your cowl to make it a double wrap infinity scarf.

The Yarn

This beautiful granny square cowl is the result of repurposing a square I love and shopping my yarn stash. We all have yarn in our collections that just sits on the shelf. Why not use it for a gorgeous fall accessory?

I chose a beautiful recycled silk yarn in my collection and decided the color was perfect for a fall-themed granny square cowl. This yarn came in a subscription box from Darn Good Yarn, something I treated myself to this past year. I’m so glad I found a purpose for this unique yarn.

This yarn is a heavier sport weight yarn that has no halo and very little, if any, stretch. When you choose your yarn, remember that a fiber content that has more stretch will alter the finished size of your cowl.

The good news is that gauge isn’t terribly important and it’s OK if the finished measurements change slightly with the weight of your yarn. Choosing a lighter DK or worsted weight yarn means your granny square cowl is a little larger. A lighter sport weight will result in something a little smaller.

Either way, your finished cowl should be the perfect size for you no matter what you choose!

Remember, this granny stitch cowl is perfect for any season, not just fall. The yarn you choose will change the character and weight of the cowl. That means a cotton yarn will give you the perfect spring/summer version and a wool yarn will give you all the warmth you need for the winter season.

Use your imagination to make the Wagon Wheel Cowl one of the most versatile accessories in your project bag!

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Fall Favorites Blog Hop

The Fall Favorites Blog Hop, hosted by Pam of Made with a Twist, is an event that features daily designs for wearables that bring ALL the autumn vibes.

On Friday, November 1, the Wagon Wheel Cowl is the featured design. That means you can download a premium PDF absolutely free for 24 hrs.

The free download is now expired. But, you can still see all the designs in the blog hop by clicking the button below.

All 12 designs featured in the Fall Favorites Blog Hop are available for purchase in one convenient bundle. If you missed any of the designs, this is a great way to get them all in one place! Hurry, though, the bundle goes away for good at the end of the day Sunday, November 3rd.

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The Wagon Wheel Granny Square Cowl Free Pattern

General Information

Yarn

Any heavy sport (#2) or light DK (#3) weight will work for this cowl. – Approx. 4.8 oz or 530 yds.

Yarn used for sample: Darn Good Yarn “Recycled Silk Yarn” sport weight (1.8 oz/200 yd; 50 g/182 m) – 3 hanks in Marrakesh Market

Hook

US size H-8 (5mm) or the size needed for gauge or most appropriate for yarn weight you’ve chosen

Tools

• Blocking boards and pins
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Finished Size

• Each square measures 9″ across
• The cowl measures 36″ circumference x 14″ wide

Gauge

Rnds 1-4 of the square = approx. 4.25” measured across the center

Skill Level

Advanced beginner/Intermediate because of the variety of stitches and techniques used beyond the basics

Abbreviations – US crochet terminology

• beg – beginning
• BLO – back loop only
• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• rep – repeat
• rnd(s) – round(s)
• sc – single crochet
• sk – skip
• sp – space
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• YO – yarn over

Repeats

• (…) – Work everything within the parentheses in the same st or sp.
• […] – Repeat everything within the brackets the indicated number of times.
• {…} – Repeat everything within the brackets the indicated number of times.

Special Stitches

2 double crochet cluster (2dc cl) – YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, insert hook in same st, YO, pull up loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through 3 loops on hook.

Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog) – [YO, insert hook in next st, YO, pull up loop, YO, pull through 2 loops] twice, YO, pull through all loops on the hook. This dc2tog is worked with the beg ch-2 across the 3 dc of the 1^st GS of Rnd 6.

Double crochet 3 together (dc3tog) – [YO, insert hook in the next st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops] 3 times, YO, pull through 4 loops. This dc3tog is worked over the 3 dc of the GS below in Rnd 5. (In the corners, this st is referred to as 3dc cl.)

Granny stitch (GS) – 3 dc in the same st or sp.

Half double crochet in the 3^rd loop (hdc 3lp) – when working from the front side of the stitch below – YO, insert hook through the 3^rd loop that sits behind and just under the top loop of the stitch, YO, pull through 3^rd loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook to complete the hdc.

Invisible join: At the end of the rnd, remove working loop from hook, insert hook from back to front through the top of the 1^st st of the rnd, add working loop back onto the hook and pull through to the wrong side of the square; continue as instructed.

Puff – YO, insert hook in indicated sp, YO, pull up a loop, [YO, insert hook in the same sp, YO, pull up a loop] twice, YO, pull through 7 loops on hook.

Stacked single crochet (STsc) – (This stitch is used at the beginning of a row or round to replace the traditional turning ch-3. It has the appearance of a dc.) – Insert hook in the same st as loop, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (bottom sc made), insert hook in the left vertical bar of the bottom sc, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (top sc made).

Pattern Notes

1. Do not turn after any rnd. All rnds are worked with right side facing.
2. A ch-1 at the beg of a rnd does not count as a st.
3. A ch-3 may be substituted for the STsc without altering the construction of the square.
4. Stitch counts are included only when they change.

Written Instructions

Granny Square – Make 4

Ch 4, join with a slip st to form a ring. OR, use a magic ring, tightening the ring at the end of Rnd 1.

Rnd 1: (STsc, 15 dc) in the ring, join with slip st to beg st. < 16 dc >

Rnd 2: (Ch 2, dc) in the same st (counts as 1^st 2dc cl), ch 1, [2dc cl in next st, ch 1] 15 times, join with slip st to beg dc. < 16 2dc cl, 16 ch-1 sp >

Rnd 3: Slip st into the ch-1 sp, STsc, ch 2, [dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 2] 15 times, join with slip st to beg st.  < 16 dc, 16 ch-2 sp >

Note for Rnd 4: This rnd creates a square shape around the circle.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, hdc in the same st, 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next st, 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp, hdc in the next st, [(puff, ch 3, puff) in the next ch-2 sp, hdc in the next st, 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next st, 3 sc in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next st, 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp, hdc in the next st] 3 times, (puff, ch 3, puff) in the next ch-2 sp, join with slip st to beg st. Fasten off. < 8 puffs, 20 sc, 32 hdc, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Note for Rnd 5: Count the hidden st after each corner when skipping 3 sts.

Rnd 5: Attach yarn to any ch-3 corner sp, (STsc, 2 dc, ch 3, GS) in the same corner sp, sk 3 sts, GS in the next st, [sk 2 sts, GS in the next st] 3 times, sk 2 sts, {(GS, ch 3, GS) in the ch-3 corner sp, sk 3 sts, GS in the next st, [sk 2 sts, GS in the next st] 3 times, sk 2 sts} 3 times, join with slip st to beg st.  < 24 GS, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc2tog over the next 2 sts (counts as 1^st dc3tog), ch 2, (3dc cl, ch 3, 3dc cl) in the ch-3 corner sp, {ch 2, [dc3tog across next GS, ch 2] 6 times, (3dc cl, ch 3, 3dc cl) in the next   ch-3 corner sp} 3 times, ch 2, [dc3tog across next GS, ch 2] 5 times, join with slip st to beg dc2tog. < 8 3dc cl, 24 dc3tog, 28 ch-2 sp, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 7: Ch 1, hdc in the same st, 2 hdc in the ch-2 sp, hdc in the top of the 3dc cl, {(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch-3 corner sp, hdc in the top of the 3dc cl, [2 hdc in the next ch-2 sp, hdc in the top of the next dc3tog] 6 times, 2 hdc in the next ch-2 sp, hdc in the top of the 3dc cl} 3 times, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch-3 corner sp, hdc in the top of the 3dc cl, [2 hdc in the next ch-2 sp, hdc in the top of the next dc3tog] 5 times 2 hdc in the next ch-2 sp, invisible join. < 26 hdc across each side, 4 ch-2 corner sp >

Note for Rnd 8: Be sure to work a hdc 3lp in the hidden st that may be covered by the corner sts from Rnd 7. Count the sts along each side as you go.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, hdc 3lp in the same st and in each st across to the ch-2 corner sp, [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch-2 corner sp, hdc 3lp in the next st and in each st across to the next ch-2 corner sp] 3 times, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch-2 corner sp, hdc 3lp in the next st and in each st across to the beg st, join with slip st to beg st. < 26 hdc 3lp across each side, 16 hdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp >

Note for Rnd 9: Count the hidden st in the 3 skipped sts after each corner.

Rnd 9: (STsc, 2 dc) in the same st (counts as the 1^st GS), sk 3 sts, GS in the next st, sk 3 sts, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the ch-2 corner sp, {[sk 3 sts, GS in the next st] twice, [sk 2 sts, GS in the next st] 5 times, sk 3 sts, GS in the next st, sk 3 sts, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the ch-2 corner sp} 3 times, [sk 3 sts, GS in the next st] twice, [sk 2 sts, GS in the next st] 4 times, sk 2 sts, join with slip st to beg st. < 40 GS, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Assemble the Cowl

Sew the squares together in a ring using your favorite seaming method. For the sample, I worked a slip st seam on the right side of the cowl.

How to slip stitch seam on the right side of the cowl

• Pick up 2 squares. Hold them with the wrong sides together.
• Attach the yarn through the middle chain of the corner of both squares.
• Ch 1, slip st through the next ch of both squares.
• Slip st in the BLO of each stitch of both squares across the side to the next corner.
• Slip st through the 1^st ch of the corners of both squares.
• Slip st through the middle chain of the corner of both squares.
• Fasten off.

Follow these steps until all 4 squares are seamed in a circle.

Border

Before beginning the GS border, determine how wide you want your finished cowl to be. Each rnd of GS adds .5″ to the width. For my 14″ width, I worked 5 rnds of GS along both edges of the cowl.

Edge 1

With right side facing, attach the yarn to any sp between GS along one side of the cowl.

Rnd 1: (STsc, 2 dc) in the same sp (counts as the 1^st GS), GS in the next sp and in each sp around, working a GS in the spaces on either side of each seam, join with slip st to beg st. < 44 GS >

Rnd 2: STsc in the sp to the right of the hook, GS in the next sp and in each sp around, 2 dc in the beg sp to complete the 1^st GS, join with slip st to beg st.

Rnd 3: Slip st into the next sp, (STsc, 2 dc) in the same sp, GS in the next sp and in each sp around, join with slip st to beg st.

Rnds 4-5: Rep Rnds 2-3 once or the number of times for your desired width.

Edge 2

With right side facing, attach the yarn to any sp between GS along the opposite side of the cowl.

Follow the Edge 1 instructions and work the same number of rnds for Edge 2.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Blocking

Blocking will probably be necessary depending upon the fiber content of your yarn. This will ensure the stitches are evened out and the finished size matches the sample size.

Use your favorite blocking method or the one that best suits the yarn you chose.

Here’s how to block your cowl:

• Fold the cowl in half with a seam at either side.
• Pin to the desired finished size. Be sure to pin through both thicknesses of the cowl.
• Block the cowl.
• Allow the cowl to fully dry before removing the pins.